The quivering freshness of the fish
Insulated from the Fountainbridge traffic behind a plate glass window and a row of lanterns, Maki & Ramen is calm and spacious. You can slip off your shoes and sit at its low-slung tables by the window or next to the wall plastered with peeling post-it notes. Or you can perch round the central sushi bar, especially if you have pre-ordered the 12-course omakase (translation: ‘I’ll leave it to you’) menu chosen by the chef. Highlights among starters include a mackerel nigiri so fresh it could have just leapt in from the sea, and fatty tuna, or otoro, marbled like the best rump steak. For a main course, the tender beef tataki ramen with its creamy, spicy, Thai-like sauce is hard to beat, though the tonkotsu ramen in its savoury pig bone broth comes close. Alternatively, share one of the sushi sets, which also come grilled. For drinks you can go native with sake or Japanese whisky and beer – you’ll have plenty of help choosing – pick from the tiny but well-chosen wine list or go BYOB.